The Clear Skin Guide
introduction
This post has honestly been on my heart for a few years now, before I had even conceptualized creating a blog to write it on. As I mentioned here in my very first skincare post, it’s a topic that I am so so passionate about because I know what it’s like to struggle with severe breakouts — for ten plus years to be exact. There were many times during that period where I couldn’t even look in the mirror at my own reflection. Anyone else? All I wanted was for the confidence I felt on the inside to shine through my outward appearance. Reflecting back, I believe my struggles with my skin resulted from a lack of understanding (and misinformation) of what to use and how to use it. Sounds simple, but skincare is complex and it's the little adjustments in application and the ingredients you use that see the biggest results. The Clear Skin Guide is a labor of love, from my heart to yours, that will weed through the not-so-helpful information out there and give you what works. With over 4,000 words of experienced and heartfelt advice, I hope you find it useful in your fight against acne. I believe this guide will help you tremendously — trust me.
So, here are some helpful things to note before you dig into “The Clear Skin Guide” below:
This is not a sales pitch — this advice is totally free and is a gift from my heart to your brain. I am not asking you to buy anything, whatsoever. You can pick up the products I mentioned at Target, Sephora, Nordstroms, and online, etc.
This post is not sponsored in any way. All thoughts expressed are my own through years of trial and error (you’re welcome).
The product recommendations are the tried and true things that I use myself on a daily basis. Where possible and applicable, I will try to provide product suggestions and recommendations from a few price categories to keep it budget conscious.
Am I qualified to be giving this advice? While I am not trained in any medical sense, I have years of experience, research, and trial and error under my belt to see the results that I experience for myself. I am also the person allll my friends run to for skincare advice. Does that make me sound more credible? I am very confident that my guide will be of massive help to you.
Forewarning: This guide is going to be very thorough. Are you the type of person that loves detail and specificity? If so, you’re in good hands. Grab a snack, a beverage, and a notepad and let’s get started!
So..a few Q&A’s before we begin:
Who Is This Guide For?
This guide is meant for anyone struggling with breakouts — from the occasional pimple to more moderate-severe breakouts. Your skin “type” doesn’t really matter all that much in this process — if you have oily skin, dry skin, dehydrated skin, normal skin, combination skin — my recommendations will be the same no matter your skin “type”. I will go so far as to say it is also a great regimen to follow for those who don’t experience breakouts (the ingredients have equal benefit for shrinking pores, aging concerns, and dry skin alike). But the primary focus (and therefore the many intricacies of this guide) is on getting rid of breakouts, and staying clear.
How Long Will It Take To See Results?
Again, there is no silver bullet so to speak, and it’s a complex mixture of a bunch of factors that will lead to someone’s results. If you follow the guide in its entirety, I would say to be safe, you will see improvement within a month.
Is The Dermatologist Necessary?
I am no medical professional, however, I do know that at the end of the day, dermatologists can only help you to a certain extent — you have to do your part to know the products you use and how you use them. If you’ve been to multiple dermatologists, you’ll know that even they have differing advice and opinions. Dermatologists can prescribe a list of prescription medication along these lines: benzoyl peroxide, adapalene (now available over the counter) different types of retinoids, clindamycin phosphate (topical antibiotic), oral antibiotics, spironolactone, and finally Accutane (which for the record, I did take). While Accutane did work wonders for me, newsflash, you still get breakouts after. IF I had known then what I know now about caring for my skin (what to use and how to use it), I don’t think I would have had to subject my body to Accutane. I’m not giving an endorsement or knocking it per say; I had a great experience. I just think that dermatologists aren’t really in the business of skinCARE. Does that make sense? Here is an an in-depth post on my Accutane experience if you’re interested.
One last disclaimer:
So, I’ll say it again (as I said in my skincare introduction post, sorry for the rant), but because of the internet and because of social media, there is an overwhelming amount of advice out there, and to put it plainly — it’s not all helpful. With that, we also have to understand and acknowledge that much of what we see (recommendations wise) is paid for advertising. There is contradicting advice left and right.
Important: I urge you to keep an open mind while reading this guide as I’m going to pretty much ask you to stop doing what you’re currently doing and follow these exact steps (ok not pretty much, you must). This can be hard when you may have just purchased a bunch of products, but it’s necessary. It’s a big leap of faith, I know, but you won’t see the results if you just take bits and pieces from this guide. The steps in this routine and the product recommendations truly do work together.
Ok, now we can officially begin!
the clear skin guide
This guide will cover three main elements:
Customized step-by-step routines [what to do]
Effective product recommendations [what to use]
The do’s and don’ts of skincare [how to do it]
ROUTINES BACKGROUND
Before we dive into the routines, let’s talk about the basic elements of these routines and why they are important. Remember, means and methods matter.
CLEANSE
I am a firm believer in the double cleanse (for the evening cleanse only) AND that you should wash your face in the morning — rinsing with water doesn’t remove the product you applied and slept in and you have to get your skin clean before you apply product. The AM cleanser should be a different product, however, because the needs are different (you’re not removing makeup or heavy grime, you just want a fresh cleanse).
I also believe in using a washcloth for the evening cleanse. Now, I am going to get very specific here: you HAVE to use a fresh washcloth every. single. time. Once it has been used, hang it to dry so you can put it in the laundry or throw it directly in the washer. These cannot be used more than once. They collect bacteria and will cause more breakouts. Go to Target and buy a mega pack that you can have handy throughout the week until you wash them all. So, why the washcloth? Once you have done your first cleanse in the evening (to remove makeup, oil, grime, etc.) you will then do your second cleanse (different cleanser, btw) and use the washcloth to gently massage off the cleanser. This serves as a very mild form of physical exfoliation that is important to have. The goal here isn’t to aggravate, pull, tug, or make your skin red, but to gently massage away dead skin cells. I recently ordered these off amazon and they are amazingly thorough yet gentle.
The suggested cleansers will be properly pH balanced and will not strip the skin.
TONE
Wow, poooor toner. This poor product gets such a bad rap! It’s either told it’s a useless step or that it was only for when cleansers couldn’t cleanse well enough to come in and finish the job. Well, let me get on my soap box and scream: TONER IS THE BEST. In fact, you’ll need two of them: one for hydrating the skin, and one for chemical exfoliation. Toner works to restore the skin’s pH balance after cleansing. Everything we’re doing after toning is building up light hydrating layers all the way until the finish line (aka the final moisturizer) and this product sets the tone (pun intended). After the skin is returned to its supple state (with the hydrating toner), we come in with the chemical exfoliator, a liquid one to be exact. A chemical exfoliant works down into the pore (and is capable of penetrating) and is one of your M A I N S U P E R S T A R S in the fight against acne (more information in “Treatment” section below).
Now, toners are definitely not all created equal — some include harmful, drying alcohols (in fact most do), so stick to the recommendations below or any “best” toners from Paula’s Choice for your skin type.
TREATMENT
In this guide, we’ll be using a few star treatments in our fight against blemishes:
Chemical Exfoliation
If you’re unfamiliar with chemical exfoliation, read this according to Paula’s Choice:
“Our skin naturally exfoliates dead cells every day, but over time—primarily as a result of age and unprotected sun exposure—this shedding process slows, and may stop altogether. The not-too-pretty results include dull, dry, or flaky skin; clogged, enlarged pores; bumps, wrinkles, loss of firmness, and uneven skin tone. Helping skin gently exfoliate its buildup of dead skin—the way it did naturally when we were younger—reveals the beautiful, soft, hydrated skin hiding beneath, as quickly as overnight.
Beta-Hydroxy-Acid (BHA) — BHA works on skin’s surface and inside the pore; it’s oil soluble, so it’s most often preferred for skin prone to bumps, clogs, blemishes, and enlarged pores. BHA also has natural skin-calming properties, so it’s gentle enough for sensitive skin prone to redness and/or rosacea. This well-rounded, gentle ingredient is even suitable for skin prone to milia.”
Alpha-Hydroxy-Acid (AHA) [glycolic and lactic acids] are water soluble acids generally preferred for treating sun damaged skin. This is generally a good add-on once you reach the maintenance stage.
Now, for years, I applied benzoyl peroxide all over my face as prescribed by my dermatologist and it burned my skin, made it very very angry, red and flaky, and didn’t reaaally do much for my breakouts. Why wasn’t I hearing about chemical exfoliants from my derm? There is definitely still a place for benzoyl peroxide it in the routine, but it is not an everyday product.
The second star ingredient is a retinoid. I prefer Differin Gel containing the retinoid adapalene that is available over the counter, without a prescription.
Vitamin C - A vitamin c serum is highly anti-inflammatory which is great for acne. I recommend using this as a morning treatment (which you’ll see below), but it is on the expensive side. If you were to skimp on a step, this would be the place. It would be recommended for long-term maintenance as well.
Moisturize
No matter your skin type, moisturizer is a must. If you have oily skin, you must must use it. If you don’t, you will enter a vicious cycle of being dry — signaling to your body to produce more oil — which we do not want. It will also help with your skin clarity and texture. Especially using ingredients like retinoids, chemical exfoliants, etc., you’ll need to use them twice a day. Same for you normal, combination, or dry types. Everyone should follow the same rules. The formula might change, but the rule still applies.
Sunscreen
So, I avoided this like the plague back in the day. I was convinced it made my breakouts worse (and probably did because I wasn’t using the greatest ones). Let’s just say it is absolutely mandatory to use sunscreen daily, especially when using chemical treatments on the face. Your skin is even more exposed and at risk for sun damage. The recommended sunscreens won’t break you out, I promise.
Let’s begin with the AM routine!
THE MORNING ROUTINE
Ok, so each step will be broken into an instruction and a note.
For details on why/how/when, see the routine basics above. If your question isn’t answered there, shoot me a comment and I will clarify. Product recommendations will be listed below each step.
Here we go!
STEP 1: CLEANSE
[instruction: splash face with warm water. apply a quarter size of cleanser to hand, bring to a lather and gently massage over face for twenty seconds. rinse very thoroughly, around ten splashes. pat face dry with a towel.]
Note: Pat face dry with a towel you use only for the face. Do not use a hand towel or body towel. Designate one for the face, replace it every three days with a fresh one. I know this seems like a lot, get ready to be doing lots of laundry!
PRODUCTS
[Favorite: La Roche Posay Toleriane Purifying Foaming Face Cleanser]
STEP 2: APPLY HYDRATING TONER
[instruction: saturate cotton pad, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: The skin should feel pretty saturated here. We don’t want a dry cotton pad.
PRODUCTS
[Favorite: Nuetrogena Alcohol-Free Toner — alllll time favorite. I even put it in a spray bottle and use it for refreshes throughout the day.]
STEP 3: EXFOLIATING TONER
[instruction: saturate cotton pad, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: Fan the face and let dry before moving to the next step.
PRODUCTS
[Favorite: This product is just an 11/10. It helps beyond breakouts to improve skin tone and clarity.]
STEP 4: VITAMIN C SERUM
[instruction: dispense quarter sized amount in palm of hand, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: Glide gently over the skin during application. Fan the face and let dry before moving to the next step.
PRODUCTS
[Favorite: Clinique Fresh Squeezed — I love the concept of these having a short shelf-life once you burst it open (7~days) as a testament to the vitamin c’s efficacy.]
STEP 5: MOISTURIZE
[instruction: dispense quarter sized amount in palm of hand, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: Glide gently over the skin during application. Fan the face and let dry before moving to the next step.
PRODUCTS
[Favorite: Love them equally. Sometimes I mix a cocktail of both. Just be sure to not use your fingers to get the moisturizer out of the jar packaging — use the little spatula it comes with to keep things hygienic.]
STEP 6: SUNSCREEN
[instruction: dispense quarter sized amount in palm of hand, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: Glide gently over the skin during application. Fan the face and let dry before moving on to makeup application.]
PRODUCTS
[Favorite: Love them equally. The Paula’s Choice is very fluid (runny) and doesn’t leave a white caste. The Aveeno feels calming on the skin and has a more traditional texture.]
and that’s a wrap for the AM!
I have a few specific rules for makeup application as well. There is a more detailed post here on why these things are important, but in summary…
You can only use the following foundations:
Note: It is verrrry important that you do the following..
Excerpt from my “Commandments of Good Skin” post:
—use disposable sponges and wash your makeup brushes regularly—
Any live or die fans of the Beauty Blender out there? Scroll away now. I can’t imagine a more unhygienic tool for applying makeup. If you are breakout prone, this could be a major culprit. Even if you have the diligence to clean a sponge very frequently, why dedicate that much time? I get a large, cheap pack of the latex-free sponges and use/dispose of them daily for applying foundation and concealer. This made a big difference in my skin as unwashed foundation and concealer applicators spread bacteria and oil on your skin. You also get a nearly similar result to using a beauty blender or a buffing brush. I find I can get away with using brushes for contour, bronzer, blush, highlight, etc. as I use them very light handed and only on targeted areas. I still clean these once a week to keep things clean.
You must get these disposable sponges and use a new one every time you apply foundation. Remember, the goal is to keep things ultra hygienic.
THE EVENING ROUTINE
Here we go!
STEP 1: FIRST CLEANSE
[instruction: splash face with warm water. apply a quarter size of cleanser to hand, bring to a lather and gently massage over face for twenty seconds. rinse very thoroughly, around ten splashes. pat face dry with a towel.]
Note: Remember, this first cleanse is to remove the makeup, oil, and grime. The second cleanse is to actually clean your face. Pat face dry with a towel you use only for the face. Do not use a hand towel or body towel. Designate one for the face, replace it every three days with a fresh one. I know this seems like a lot, get ready to be doing lots of laundry!
PRODUCTS
STEP 2: SECOND CLEANSE
[instruction: splash face with warm water. apply a quarter size of cleanser to hand, bring to a lather and gently massage over face for twenty seconds. rinse very thoroughly, around ten splashes. pat face dry with a towel.]
PRODUCT
[Favorite: I would cry if either of these were discontinued. The Stress Control is my all time favorite.]
STEP 3: APPLY HYDRATING TONER
[instruction: saturate cotton pad, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: The skin should feel pretty saturated here. We don’t want a dry cotton pad.
PRODUCT
[Favorite: Nuetrogena Alcohol-Free Toner — alllll time favorite. I even put it in a spray bottle and use it for refreshes throughout the day.]
STEP 4: EXFOLIATING TONER
[instruction: saturate cotton pad, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: Fan the face and let dry before moving to the next step.
PRODUCTs
[Favorite: This product is just an 11/10. It helps beyond breakouts to improve skin tone and clarity.]
STEP 5: TREATMENT [DIFFERIN] Monday, Wednesday, Friday
[instruction: dispense pea sized amount on fingertip, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: Is there a particular area you don’t break out in? You can skip it for this step only. Glide gently over the skin during application. Fan the face and let dry before moving to the next step — I like to let this sink in for around two minutes.
PRODUCTS
Link here
STEP 5: TREATMENT [BHA] Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday
[instruction: dispense dime sized amount on fingertip, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: Is there a particular area you don’t break out in? You can skip it for this step only. Glide gently over the skin during application. Fan the face and let dry before moving to the next step — I like to let this sink in for around two minutes.
PRODUCTS
[Favorite: This product is like a super serum version of the BHA exfoliant. It helps beyond breakouts to improve skin tone and clarity.]
STEP 6: MOISTURIZE
[instruction: dispense quarter sized amount in palm of hand, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: Glide gently over the skin during application. Fan the face and let dry before moving to the next step.
PRODUCTS
[Favorite: Love them equally. Sometimes I mix a cocktail of both. Just be sure to not use your fingers to get the moisturizer out of the jar packaging — use the little spatula it comes with to keep things hygienic.]
STEP 6: MOISTURIZE (BOOSTER)
[instruction: dispense dime sized amount in palm of hand, distribute evenly over face.]
Note: IF you’re feeling frisky or particularly dry from the retinoid, I like to make a moisture cocktail. I squirt this directly into my moisturizer for an added boost of hydration.
PRODUCT
[Favorite: Love them equally. Sometimes I mix a cocktail of both. These really make a difference pumped into your moisturizer of choice, especially when battling any flakiness from the retinoid.]
and that’s a wrap for the PM!
Evening Skincare Routine Note:
If you haven’t done a retinoid before, or are particularly sensitive to them, I would work your way up to the three times per week as described in the routine. Starting out Monday’s and Friday’s would be best for acclimating.
SKINCARE DO’S AND DON’TS
We have covered a good portion of the do’s and don’ts already throughout the guide such as various hygiene items, but here is a list of more specific things you need to be on top of as well:
CHANGE YOUR PILLOW CASES AT LEAST ONCE A WEEK
Any side sleepers out there? Think of how up close and personal your cheeks get with that pillow case. Between sweating in your sleep and the oils and products from your hair, pillow cases collect a lot of grime. This is a great one for those struggling with breakouts.
SLEEP WITH YOUR HAIR OFF YOUR FACE
Same concept applies here as with the pillow cases - the products we apply in our hair can be highly comedogenic. Sleep with your hair in a top know or braid to keep it off your face while you sleep. Bonus that it maintains any effort you put into styling your hair.
DON’T TOUCH YOUR FACE - I REPEAT DON’T TOUCH YOUR FACE
An oldie but a goodie. Your hands have bacteria, oil, and who knows what else on them. From using your phone to your laptop, we touch a lot of surfaces constantly. Notice that you’re breaking out in a distinct area like your cheeks or your chin? This could be the culprit. Every time we touch our face or rest our chin in our hands, we are introducing that grime to our skin. Hello breakouts. Hands off!
HAVE A PIMPLE? TAKE CARE OF IT THIS WAY
We always hear or read: do not pop or pick a pimple!!! But how am I expected to just walk around with this creature on my face?! When you have a good old pimple (or ten), try this method instead:
Gently cleanse your face to remove debris. Grab one of those handy washcloths and run it under hot water. Place your finger under the washcloth and gently drag it over the pimple. This is great for getting rid of whiteheads specifically, while doing less damage to the skin. If it’s under the skin, like a pustle or cyst, don’t touch. I think we call all testify that this does more harm than good. Forcing it out (IF it even comes out, gross I know) damages the skin, leads to more post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation, and the zits seem to spread and multiply within the area. For pimples under the skin, treat it with a chemical exfoliant in the evening and gently pat on an oil-free moisturizer. Drying lotions and potions do not work for under the skin pimples! It just makes your makeup look bad.
BE CAUTIOUS OF HAIR REMOVAL TECHNIQUES
Your facial hair removal technique could also be causing your breakouts. Acne starts with the perfect storm of oil and bacteria in the hair folical lining. If you are experiencing breakouts where you remove your facial hair, try switching up your technique. If you are waxing or using a depilatory cream (neither are good for the acne prone or those using acne treatment products) and it’s irritating the skin, try threading or another means. I am obsessed with the Flawless Face Facial Hair Remover. It’s hygienic, and gets a smooth finish.
AVOID THESE INGREDIENTS
It’s important to know what ingredients cause your skin to react in a negative way. While I am clearly not a chemist and don’t fully understand all product ingredients and how they interact with each other, I do know of a few irritants that my skin does not get along with like waxes, certain alcohols, and fragrant essential oils. Some good ingredients like niacinamide, ceramides, and hyaluronic acid work to rebuild the moisture barrier.
summary
You’ve reached the end!
If you’ve made it this far, I’m very proud of you haha. You are one dedicated individual. Please, please, please, stick with this. See how your skin responds, I cannot wait to hear feedback from those of you who adopt this holistic routine. Feel free to comment below with questions or DM me over on Instagram @creategenuine. I absolutely love hearing from you guys.
All the very best!
XAshley